CHARTER - MARTINIQUE
More typical and probably more corresponding
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with European expectations of
a Caribbean cruise, is the leeward side
of Martinique. St. Pierre in the North is
worth seeing, despite the anchorage being
somewhat cohesionless at times, especially
in winter and especially of course for
monohulls. From here, a land excursion
can be organised to the volcano of Mount
Pelée which covered the former island
capital under a lethal layer of lava during
an eruption in 1902. Today, the volcano
is not anymore active but surrounded by
stunning and lush rainforest.
On our way back to Le Marin we pass
the “Rocher du Diamant”. The steep and
rugged basalt cliffs of Diamond Rock, only
about one mile south-east of Pointe du
Diamant on the south coast of Martinique
protrude about 175 meters high from the
sea. It is not only a distinctive landmark
and one of the best diving spots of the
island, but - historically - more than any
other the spot is symbolic of the British
French fighting about Martinique.
In 1804 a squad of British marines and
sailors managed to occupy the rocks and
even built a small battery. Almost unimaginable
for anyone who sails past Diamond
Rock today; there isn’t a single suitable
landing site, not even a partially protected
one. On one of the rare days with little
wind and calm seas the British, under the
command of Commodore Samuel Hood,
had indeed managed to land people, food,
water and heavy guns and ammunition
on the rocks in a singularly strenuous and
daring action – This was achieved with the
sailing ships of the 18th and 19th century
and cumbersome rowing boats, with which
they brought the material from the ships
out to the rock and there hoisted them up
the cliffs using long ropes and pulleys.
For 17 months, the English camped out
on the rock and with their guns seriously
hindered shipping to Martinique. Coming
from the south and to avoid the guns on
the rock, ships had to head so far out the
sea that it was impossible, or only with
great difficulty possible to reach the town
of Fort-de-France against the trade winds
in the Bay. With thievish pride Hood had
the rocks entered onto the list of British
naval ships as HMS Diamond Rock and
as an »unsinkable four-gun sloop«. Up to
120 men were stationed here. They slept
in caves, collecting rainwater in cisterns
and the provisions, which were lifted off
vessels by block and tackle were supplemented
by some goats and chicken, that
managed to sustain themselves on the
meagre vegetation on the steep rock.
In a cave just above sea level the English
even established a hospital, where
marines and sailors could recover from
attacks of fever or injury. But one night,
most of the British occupants of the
battery were mostly asleep, a squad of
French sailors came alongside in two
large sloops and retook the rock for
Napoleon.
Napoleon himself was not a sailor and has
never visited Martinique. But the island